Pheasant Hunting Ammo

Pheasant Hunting Ammo and Chokes – A Pheasant Hunters Guide

A Guide to Pheasant Hunting Ammo and Chokes for a wide spread of situations.

Pheasant hunting seems pretty straightforward. Go out, find a public piece of cover adjacent to, or near a food source, walk, kick up a bird, and shoot. It can be that simple, but knowing what is coming out of the end of your barrel and how it’s reacting after it leaves your gun is important. Here is a guide to pheasant hunting ammo and chokes from the Basic Uplander series.

Breaking It Down

Choosing pheasant loads and chokes can get rather complex, especially when you factor in the different types of cover you might encounter. Some management areas or natural areas that are legal to hunt require steel shot, some do not. Lead is always going to pack a bigger punch, so that’s optimal, but if you run into an area where water is present, steel shot is the way to go. The type of shot you’re using will determine the choke you want screwed into the end of your barrel. Region and time of year also play a role in shot and choke choices.

Chokes

Chokes are screwed into the end of the barrel of the vast majority of shotguns floating about. If you own a shotgun that doesn’t have interchangeable chokes, than this doesn’t apply to you. If your gun does have screw-in chokes (interchangeable), than let’s talk about what chokes do. Simply put, a choke is screwed into the end of the barrel, and is smaller in diameter than the barrel itself. Chokes come in a variety of “sizes” or constrictions. The more constriction, the tighter the shot pattern will be as it leaves the last couple of inches of the barrel. Common chokes are cylinder, which has no constriction, improved cylinder, which is .010 inches smaller than the bore, modified , which is .020 inches smaller than the bore, and full, which is .035 inches smaller than the bore. The tighter the choke, the tighter the pattern.

Shot Size

When it comes to shot sizes, most pheasant hunters would probably tell you that any shell from size 1 to size 7.5 will knock down a pheasant. A lot of people don’t understand the makeup of a shotshell, or what the numbers represent. It breaks down like this; the higher the number, the smaller the diameter of the pellets. For example, #9 shot pellets will be less than .09 inches in diameter, and will have a mass of less than 1 grain. On the other end of the spectrum, #1 shot pellets will have a diameter of .16 inches or larger, and a mass just shy of 6 grains. What does this mean? It means than a shell can hold a LOT of #9 shot, and not a lot of #1 shot, however, #9 shot loses velocity quickly, so each individual pellet isn’t nearly as strong as that of #1 shot. With #1 shot, the pellets are stronger, and retain more “punch” at longer distances, but there aren’t a lot of pellets going toward the bird.

Shot Type

When it comes to pheasant hunting ammo, there are a hundred types of ammo available. You can get standard lead shot, in sizes ranging from 7.5 up to 4 shot. Many manufacturers make these lead shells. Then there are specialized shells loaded with special pellets to help knock down this large gamebird, that can oftentimes flush at long distances. Federal Premium Ammunition makes a load called Prairie Storm, which contains 70% copper-plated lead and 30% nickel-plated FLITESTOPPER lead pellets, which have a ring around the pellet, increasing the wound channels in the target. Then there’s steel shot, which can range from #2 shot down to #6 for effective takedown power on pheasants. Again, you can get more effective with Prairie Storm from Federal in their FS Steel line, which has the same FLITESTOPPER pellet composition, this time in steel. All boxes of Prairie Storm sold contribute directly to Pheasants Forever through their on-box royalty program.

The Common Choices

Most pheasant hunters like #4 to #6 lead shot through a modified or improved cylinder choke. #5 shot is probably the most common load, with a modified choke being the most common choke choice. This combination will work throughout the season, and the nice thing about a modified choke is the ability to shoot steel pheasant hunting ammo if need be without effecting performance.

Changing Through the Season

Early season can be boom or bust. Many crops are still standing, and it’s common to see large numbers of pheasants holding in standing corn, making them nearly impossible to get to at times, especially in the modern day-and-age of corn, with stalks standing 8-9’ tall. However, if you can catch he birds in roosting or resting areas like CRP, shelter belts, small waterway edges, or fencerows, you can have some very close shooting on birds that will hold very tight. An improved cylinder is ideal with a smaller shot size, 6-7.5 shot is great early. If you’re in an area that doesn’t allow lead shot, 6 shot works great.

As the crops come out, and the birds become a little more educated, some of the smarter birds will flush wild and early, making your shots much longer. 30-40 yard shots are pretty common, and you’re going to need a little more punch. An improved cylinder will still work, but a modified choke will give you an advantage when it comes to the longer flushes. #5 or #6 shot shines mid-season. In steel, #4 shot gets my vote.

When late season hits, and birds start utilizing thick, tough cover, you’re going to need to step up everything from your energy and physical strength, to your chokes and shot sizes. Birds will hold in cattail sloughs and dense willow cover, and will flush if the wind hits them in a way they don’t like. This is also the time of year where birds covey up and flushes of 20-40 birds in one small patch of cover are possible. A modified choke with #5 shot is ideal, and stepping up to 3” 1 5/8oz loads isn’t a bad idea. With steel, this is when FS Steel will excel, in shot as large as #2, down to #4.

Variables and Suggestions

By no means do I intend for this to be your end-all-be-all guide to shot-gunning pheasants from opener through January, it’s just something to keep in mind. Earlier I mentioned changes from region to region. Hunting pheasants in Wyoming isn’t like hunting birds in Southern MN. You need to adjust for the cover you’re hunting, and go from there.

Patterning your shotgun with different chokes and different pheasant hunting ammo is important. Not only for you, but to show respect for the game you’re after. We all want to make clean, ethical shots. Patterning and knowing your gun, chokes, and loads is one way of ensuring that.

One important thing to keep in mind is that you’re dealing with a larger bird that’s packing on fat as the season progresses. High-brass Pheasant hunting ammo is imperative. Don’t skimp on price buying low-brass and chancing losing birds. For a 12 gauge, nothing short of 1 1/8oz. loads should be considered in my opinion.

Double Barrels

If you’re lucky enough to own a double barrel with interchangeable chokes, you have the advantage of having two chokes ready. It’s nice when you have that tight flush where you need a big spread to hit the bird, and a second bird flushes at a distance. I like to choke my first barrel with whatever fits the season I’m in, and my second barrel is always a step tighter in constriction, as my second shot is rarely as short as the first. For example, early season hunting I’ll tote a double barrels set up with an improved cylinder choke in the first barrel, and an modified choke in the second barrel.

Last modified: October 2, 2017

4 Responses to :
Pheasant Hunting Ammo and Chokes – A Pheasant Hunters Guide

  1. Kent F says:

    Lot’s of good stuff here. Thanks! I’ll just add this on the subject of double guns. It’s true that very few have screw-in chokes — they’re almost always fixed/permanent. But one of the advantages of vintage doubles is that the two barrels permit two chokes, for the two different kinds of situations you describe. Although you’ll find some choked identically, maybe 90 percent have some combination, Mod and Full being most common, followed by IC and Mod.

    1. Kent F says:

      Should add that I’m talking about almost every side-by-side, and over-and-unders from before the 1980s. Most O/Us built in the last 35 years or so have interchangeable chokes.

  2. Joe Lesmeister says:

    I am a firm believer in nickel or copper plated rounds. They deform less, have better patterns and do not draw feathers into the meat. I shoot #4’s all year long, only takes one, maybe two pellets to be lethal. I also use a Light Mod choke until late season, it is a nice compromise for us single barrel guys.

  3. greg wilson says:

    Also have to consider public vs private grounds. In South Dakota you can only use Steel on public land. You can’t even have lead shells in your vest.

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